Whenever non-Jews ask me about my conversion to Judaism one of the most common concerns is how I could have ever given up Christmas. From the tone of their voices, I get the impression that they view this as the ultimate sacrifice.After all, unlike people who were born Jewish, I’ve actually celebrated the holiday.I even grew up in a house with a Christmas tree. I remember the joy of the holiday and the thrill of the gift giving and yet it wasn’t enough to prevent me from converting away from Christianity.It all seems unimaginable to them, and yet it’s really not an issue for me.
First, let me clarify the fact that I don’t have any feeling of hostility towards the Christmas holiday.I’ve never suffered any great trauma on Christmas that I’m trying to bury in the depths of my psyche.I have plenty of other neurosis to keep my psyche busy. In fact, I have wonderful memories of my childhood Christmas experiences.I like looking at Christmas trees and spent a pleasant hour this evening driving around looking at lights with my Mother. However, I must confess that I do get a little tired of the music, and the excessive gift giving leaves me weary.
The reality is that I really haven’t given much of anything up when it comes to Christmas.It’s virtually impossible to live in American society and not have your life impacted in some way by the holiday season.Granted I don’t have a Christmas tree in my house, but every Jew I know participates in the larger society where office or social holiday parties are the holiday custom.Given the high rate of intermarriage in the American Jewish community, most Jews have at least one or two non-Jewish relatives who celebrate the holiday, so there’s a lot of Jewish gift giving going on.
What is different for me, and what I truly have given up, is the fact that I now sit on the outside of the holiday looking in.While I may take part in the holiday celebrations, and even find myself immersed in a culture which adores Christmas, it’s no longer my holiday.I visit Christmas like one would visit an old neighborhood.It all looks familiar, but it’s not home anymore.In fact, it often looks quite different than I remember.
What you see when you look at Christmas from the outside, especially after having been an insider for many years, is a very bizarre holiday that is absolutely contradictory on many levels.First of all, it’s a celebration of the most sacred event in Christian theology, yet there is really very little that’s religious about the holiday.The date isn’t mentioned in the Bible, nor is there any Biblical instruction for its celebration.Any Jew will tell you that people are always inviting you to take part in the celebration on the basis that there’s nothing religious about the holiday.Then there’s the gift giving.People say it’s the thought that counts, not the gift.Yet, as any child sitting on Santa’s lap will immediately tell you, the gift matters.Christmas is done large in America from the excessive gift giving, to the over the top light displays, to the extravagant holiday parties. Maybe the thought is what matters, but more often our generosity is measured not by thoughts, but by excess.
I’m at a loss to explain the whole Santa Clause thing.Maybe he’s supposed to be some kind of reincarnated Jesus figure in a red suit. After all, he has all these magical powers that allow him to fly around in a sled pulled by reindeer. As every child soon learns, Santa also knows the secrets of children’s behavior and rewards them appropriately.He’s like this completely secular aspect of the holiday that’s somehow bestowed with divine powers.Of course, as children grow up and learn that he’s completely fictional parents are often dismayed when the children become skeptical about the whole Jesus and G-d thing. I guess the parents miss the parallels.
My house doesn’t have a Christmas tree, which seems very normal to me these days.Indeed, my house is my refuge from all the holiday chaos.I see plenty of Christmas trees as I go about my business during the holiday season. There’s one in the middle of the Courthouse that stands several stories tall and is covered with red bows that I really like. So far my office remains a Christmas tree free zone, but I’m sure that’s only a matter of time.My Mother always has a small artificial tree that she keeps on a table next to a dancing penguin display that sings Christmas tunes. I really like enjoying other people’s trees, and am so grateful that I don’t have to put up my own. I can just play with other people’s trees and then hand them back when the needles begin to shed.
In a way, that’s really my perspective these days.I like to watch the holiday season, partake in some of its social aspects, but I’m happiest not to have to actually do the holiday season.When I think about the spirit of the season, that is, concern for your fellow man, an effort for kindness and generosity, I realize that I’ve adopted a tradition where those concerns are never ending and not confined to one portion of the year.As a Jew I’m commanded to care for the homeless every day, to visit the sick whenever possible, to give charity, and to always strive to make the world a better place.If you look at Christmas from that perspective, maybe there are Jewish elements to it?After all, Jesus was Jewish, why shouldn’t his birthday be celebrated in a Jewish manner? Latke anyone?
The Republican Party has managed to create a hot-topic issue out of immigration to which the Democrats are only too eagerly taking the bait on in absolute distraction against the real issues of concern for most Americans. I guess anything is better than having to debate your political opponent on the more difficult issues such as the war in Iraq, the escalating deficit, the credit crisis, or G-d forbid, healthcare.
Quite frankly, I could care less about people coming to the United States seeking jobs picking vegetables, cleaning houses, or doing the other dozens of other difficult low-paying jobs that most Americans refuse to do.I don’t want to do these jobs and I don’t see many American’s out of work or wages depressed because immigrant workers are willing to do them.Nor, do I buy that there’s a great security risk of terrorists sneaking in over the Mexican border.So far, all the nut-jobs, such as Timothy McVeigh or the world trade center bombers, who’ve succeeded in committing acts of terrorism on American soil were either born here or entered the country lawfully.
No, my concern isn’t at all about what’s coming into the United States.In fact, it’s the complete opposite. My concern is what’s leaving the United States in search of better opportunities across the border or overseas.Anyone who has called tech support in recent years knows that those jobs are no longer in the United States.It’s not just manufacturing jobs which are leaving anymore.Accounting is now being “outsourced” as is software development and a number of other formerly lucrative career fields requiring specialized skills and education. I’m told that even legal research is being farmed out to foreign lawyers who are not licensed to actually practice in the United States, but who have graduated from American style law schools located overseas. Perhaps, what we really need to be concerned about is the fact that people no longer need to come here to take our jobs. Instead, they simply need to wait until the large Amercian corporations, to whose every whim our government absolutely caters to, moves the job out of the United States and brings it to their neighborhood. Why risk crossing the border when emmigration brings the good jobs to you?
It’s not just jobs which are leaving our nations, but the very essence of American greatness.We are falling further in further behind the rest of the industrialized world in important measures such as infant mortality and access to health care.We no longer manufacture the world’s largest airliner. We continue to have excellent Universities, but our public school system is abysmal and rapidly returning to the segregated system that existed in the 1950’s.Our own citizens are seeking medical care out of the country in order to access affordable care.
Of course, we continue to lead the World in some areas, but I find little comfort in some of those numbers.For instance, we have the world’s largest prison population in both raw number and percentage of our population.We also lead the industrialized world in prosecuting juveniles as adults.We’re quickly becoming a leading debtor nation and in the process we’re exporting financial instability throughout the world.On a more positive note, we export more arms than any other nation in the world.
I honestly don’t expect that any issues of importance will be dealt with by our current crop of Presidential hopefuls. After all, if you take a stand on something meaningful, people might disagree with you and vote for your opponent. Instead, I expect we’ll be treated to more the same distracting and meaningless nonsense that we’ve seen so far.The Republicans will continue to set the agenda and the Democrats will continue to simply react.However, when some idiot tells you that you need to be alarmed by “illegal immigration” consider last week’s story about the nine year old boy who was in a car accident along the border. His Mother died in the crash, leaving him alone at night in the desert.One of these so-called undesirables, who was sneaking over the border in search of work came across the boy, kept him warm, protected him, and stayed with the child until help arrived the next morning.Of course, that help immediately arrested the guy, held him in jail, so he could be sent back to Mexico.Don’t you feel safer now?
I’m not a happy camper right now. I’m sitting in a wooden rocking chair located in the atrium at the Charlotte-Douglas airport.Actually, the chair has little to do with my unhappiness, rocking chairs in airports are truly rather nice.My unhappiness arises from the fact that I shouldn’t be sitting here at all.I should be home in my own bed, or just getting out of my bed, preparing to go to work.
Indeed, I have once again become victim that most unpleasant of modern afflictions known as the cancelled flight.My flight home from Washington last night was cancelled due to mechanical problems. This I can understand. As a pilot I know it’s much better to be on the ground wishing I were in the air than in the air wishing I were on the ground.So, I don’t fault the airline (US Airways) for cancelling my flight.However, I what I do fault them for is everything else that has served to make this such an unpleasant experience.Couldn’t they staff the ticket counter at a major airport like Washington National with more than 3 slow moving people?Couldn’t they teach their employees the very basics of civility and customer service? Maybe they couldn’t create a corporate culture where what they tell their customers is what actually happens? I know they have training because I’ve watched a half dozen employees all go flawlessly through the sales pitch for the new US Airway Visa Card that gives you free flights and the unspoken potential lifetime of debt.I’ve watched them do the sales pitch in the airport, and for 5 minutes on the airplane as the flight attendants hand out credit card applications.Is there no shame in US Airways that they want to be associated with predatory credit card industry? Why don’t they just hand out crack on the airplane?
Fortunately, it looks like I’m going to get out of here headed for home in about an hour.I’m tired, I miss my wife and dogs, and I’ve had enough of US Airways to last me for another couple years.
Well, the jury is in and the guards and nurse of the Bay County Boot Camp have been acquitted of all charges in the death of Martin Lee Anderson. In Tallahassee protestors are in the streets blocking traffic in front of the State Capital building in what appears to be a futile effort to make people care about this story as more than entertainment news.My review of the internet press is that the outside world is trying to figure out what happened. After all, there’s a video that clearly shows the guards beating the young man until he collapsed.How do go from that video to an absolute acquittal on all charges?
I think several factors need to be considered in understanding this verdict.First, I don’t think the jury acquitted simply due to racial issues. However, I do think the jury recognized that the defendants, several Sheriff’s Deputies and Nurse, are not your run of the mill common criminal defendants either. That is, none of the defendants set out with criminal intent. I suspect it was very easy for the jury to buy into the idea that the death was accidental, which I also believe. However, the other reality is that their actions were clearly abusive and that abuse accidentally caused this young man’s death.Are they murderers? Not in the classic sense, but I do think they have blood on their hands.
The problem with the boot camps is that they were founded in a desire to punish that evolved into a system of torture and abuse.Those of us who worked with juvenile delinquents back when the boot camps were running all heard stories of the abuse, but never had any proof. Our clients are generally viewed simply as delinquents and their stories as lies. Also, the idea of a teenaged hoodlum suffering through military style disciplines appeals the societal blood lust which I believe is tacitly, if not overtly, condoned. However, to be fair, I’ve also had clients tell me that they felt they got more out of the boot camp program than they did the more traditional behavior modification/counseling programs. I know for myself, Marine Corps boot camp made a great difference in my life.However, I also know that my Marine Corps drill instructors were given strict guidelines in our training and that we were never abused in that way the video showed Martin Lee Anderson being abused.
There’s a lot of speculation regarding the outcome of the trial. One of my colleagues, who watched the closing argument, suggested that the Prosecution of this case was done very weakly. The Tallahassee Democrat quotes the defense attorney as saying the Prosecution’s witnesses killed their case due to conflicting testimony.You’ve got to wonder how supposedly experienced prosecutors managed to so screw up a case. I wonder about this, after all the relationship between the State Attorneys and Law Enforcement is a very close one. Add in the fact that most prosecutors endorse the idea of boot camp programs and it’s conceivable that a prosecutor might not get fired up about the case. I read online that the United States Attorney’s Office is now looking into the matter and is conducting a review of the trial.It’ll be interesting to see what comes out of the review.
My personal feelings about the trial are that I don’t think it was such an easy case to win.You’ve got very sympathetic defendants who were acting in a completely undisciplined system. The rumor mill has it that the Florida Department of Juvenile Justice (DJJ) had protested the Boot Camps violations of DJJ rules only to be politically silenced and ignored.My guess is that abusive treatment was so common-place and accepted in the boot camp that nobody even thought to question it anymore.After all, it’s difficult to say something is morally wrong and abusive when your job depends upon playing along and there’s tremendous political support for your actions.I am not at all fearful that any of these defendants will ever harm anyone again and I’m sure the jurors weren’t either. They’re simply not “evil” people in the classical sense.On the other hand, they are examples of that most fearsome and dangerous of all humans, the otherwise good person who through self-interest and blind obedience, has become insensitive to the suffering of another human being such they stand idle in the face of government sponsored torture and abuse.
Last night I went to see the Blue Man Group for the third time. They're excellent. They did this bit in their show and thought somebody who reads this blog might enjoy it.
Why is it that if you offer me an opportunity to take a class I normally react in a positive manner, but if you tell me that I need to attend some kind of "training", I generally do all I can to avoid the experience? Am I the only one who feels this way?
This past weekend I found myself debating the war in Iraq with a group of folks who all held different opinions on the issue. I suggested that we pull our troops back to the oil fields and invite the UN to secure the rest of the county. My thought was that we can protect the oil production, pay off the war debt, and set up a trust fund to help rebuild Iraq when the civil war is over. Other people said we should just bring our troops home and forget about Iraq while others said we need to hunker down and stay put.
I suspect that if I lived in Iraq today I wouldn’t much care about whether or Iraq is free for democracy. My priority would probably be whether or not my country would go forward in peace or dissolve into death and destruction. Which really begs an important issue of our foreign policy on whether or not our goal needs to change from propping up this “democratic government” or finding what pathway will most effectively end the violence? Maybe it’s just that we are simply fighting in the wrong country and need to move to the next nation to the east?
As an American citizen I really don’t get to make a lot of decisions regarding our nation’s involvement in Iraq. I mean, it’s not like I get to decide what happens with our troops. I can only vote to support politicians who I believe will lead the nation in the direction I want to go. I guess we can always write letters, but it’s not like there’s a lot of protesting or demonstrations going on. We all seem very complacent these days.
When I was a young child the Vietnam war was going on and I remember, even as a young child, the images in the television screen as they came into my house narrated by the voice of Walter Cronkite. Certainly the world has grown a lot smaller in the past 35 years and I wonder why we don’t see the images of Iraq like we saw Vietnam? Maybe I just don’t watch much television, but even when I do it doesn’t seem like we have the types of images we had back in the 60’s and 70’s. I know the US government won’t allow the media to show images of dead or wounded American soldiers and I can’t help but wonder how much of that decision is national security and how much is political interest of the politicians. Would seeing an image of a wounded or dead American soldier cause us to vote differently? Maybe we’d protest in opposition or support of the war? Maybe we’d agree to pay more taxes in order to better arm our soldiers? Can democracy work when the story we receive is censored?
Whatever the answers to these questions and to the whole Iraq mess are I honestly don’t know. I do know that we need to find some pathway to peace and that our nation is reaching the end of its endurance for this war. I also know that we’ve made promises we need to keep and that to simply turn our backs on the Iraqis who have worked in support of our mission would be a great human rights crime.
I recently bought this album. This is probably the best track on it. It's a collaborative effort by many Jewish musicians to help the victims of terror in Israel. The website is www.voicesforisrael.com
I’ve been meaning to write about this for a while. Last week, my wife’s Mother called and alerted her to a reality t.v. show that was going to be on one evening. The premise of the show was where these two wives change families who each get $50,000, only they have to spend it the way the guest wife decides. What got my Mother-in-law’s attention was the fact that for this particular episode they were taking an orthodox Jewish woman from New Jersey and having her swap places with this Southern Redneck woman from backwater Kentucky. It was the ultimate frum-goy interaction, the only problem is that it was totally contrived.
They started off the show with the expected shocked introductions, as if these people on the reality show never expected to be taken so far out of their elements. The Jews acted like they’d never contemplated the world outside New Jersey or saw a redneck before, and the rednecks acted like they’d never heard of New Jersey or Jews before. It was pathetic. Then, there’s all this nonsense about the Orthodox wife, who keeps a strict kosher diet, suddenly becoming aware that there’s no kosher food available in Kentucky. Excuse me, but I know they have vegetables in Kentucky and vegetables are always kosher. I also know that my frummie friends don’t travel around the block, much less to Kentucky without making sure there’s going to be something kosher available to eat.
The show went on to make the redneck family look ignorant and indifferent to education. Then, when the Orthodox wife suggested a tutor for the 16 year old redneck boy he runs off crying to his room and phones his Grandmother to come to his rescue. I’m sorry, but the redneck boys I grew up with were all a little more thick skinned than that and they certainly weren’t going to be seen on national t.v. crying because someone suggested they get a tutor. Of course, the Jewish kids aren’t portrayed much better. In one climactic moment this geeky 20 year old – still lives at home and doesn’t date - Jewish boy revealed to the Redneck mama that he likes to drink and has been to parties where people smoke marijuana. This is all played up to infer that the Jewish parents don’t know what’s going on with their children. I’m sitting there thinking that if I were a geeky 20 year old who still lives at home and doesn’t date, I’d probably drink and chase a contact high too.
One might ask where the husband’s were in all this. From what I could tell, the producers of the show managed to find the two most uninvolved and silent men on the planet. Other than occasionally bellowing something utterly stupid, the husbands were portrayed as being no more involved in the lives of the household than the tacky wall paper hanging on the wall behind the stuffed dear head in the Redneck house.
The total effect of the show was to make both cultures look as ridiculous and different as possible. If that show revealed anything even approaching the truth I’d have to just shoot myself because I certainly live with a foot in both those worlds and I couldn’t stand living in either one, much less both. Fortunately, I don’t have to shoot myself because there was very little about that show that accurately represented either the frum or the goy world. They totally missed the universal kindness you can find in both cultures. They didn’t show the joy of a Jewish Shabbat or a redneck family fishing trip. They didn’t show Southern honor and dignity, or the Jewish commitment to justice. The viewers never got to see how both cultures cherish their traditions and values, and how they strive to pass those traditions and values on to their children in the face of a world that often seems to have abandoned those values. Jewish, Redneck, Yankee, Southern. I can claim all these labels, which means that about half the jokes in the world are about some group I’m member of. I don’t see conflict among the groups, nor did I see anything familiar on that t.v. show. I suspect if you want to find truth, television is going to fail you. Instead, you have to turn off the t.v., go out your front door, and see the world for yourself, because no matter how often they call it reality t.v., it’s a long way from being real.
This past week a Federal Judge sentenced attorney Lynne Stewart to 28 months in Federal Prison. She was convicted during a jury trial last year of using her position to aid a client accused of terrorism by helping him to communicate with his supporters. Some say this is a victory since government prosecutors were asking for 30 years. Her supporters say the government’s case against her is nothing more than a vendetta designed to intimidate lawyers away from representing accused terrorists.
It’s an interesting legal dilemma. Lawyers have an ethical duty to uphold the law, and the law in the case of Lynne Stewart’s client was that he was to be held without communication to his supporters due to the Court’s fear that he would direct terrorist acts from jail. On the other hand, a lawyer has an ethical duty to zealously represent one’s client, and sometimes that zealous representation can mean advocating for your client politically as well as in the courtroom. Political pressure can greatly influence the way in which a prosecutor handles a case and applying outside political pressure is, in my opinion, a legitimate way of advocating for one’s client.
The Lynne Stewart case has touched my life in some very interesting ways. This case started when I was in law school and was a highly debated cause among my fellow students. One group voted to present Lynne Stewart with a Public Interest Lawyer of the Year award and the debate erupted. The press jumped all over the story and the CUNY chancellors threatened to de-fund the law school. I made some comments about the fight in an email exchange and the next thing I know I’m getting a 45 minute interview by a NY Times reporter. This when I learned that reporters can talk to you for a long-time, then use only one line from the whole interview, and manage to take that line out of context if it works with their story.
So what of Lynne Stewart? Is she a hero or a villain? My guess is a little bit of both. She appears to have violated a court order while representing her client. I don’t think she was intentionally assisting her client to commit a terrorist act. I hope that no lawyer would ever do such a thing. However, I do think she exercised bad judgment. Do I think she should be criminally prosecuted? Absolutely not, the precedent it sets is far too dangerous and the case can too easily have a chilling effect upon the ability of a defense attorney to defend the most despised of clients. There are other options available to handle her situation. There is a bar complaint, or a contempt order from the Court. Additionally, the Court can simply remove her from the case and prevent her from further representation of other dangerous defendants.
Defense attorneys are the accused last opportunity for justice. It’s a very messy job. Many of our clients are not nice people who make our jobs exceedingly difficult. We encounter victims and police officers who sometimes lie, and we have to expose those lies in an attempt to get justice for our clients. We cross examine the witnesses who are often decent people who don’t deserve to have their integrity or judgment publicly questioned. I regularly fight with prosecutors, to the point that we sometimes take it personally. Yet there are lines I don’t cross. I’ve never filed a bar complaint against a prosecutor, even when I had ample grounds to do so, and I’ve never worried that they would use their prosecutorial power to try to silence me in the courtroom. I remember the news on the evening of 9/11 and a reporter who said that our world had changed and he commented on how we would have to give up some of our liberties in exchange for security. Maybe we do need to submit to a more intrusive government eye and searches before entering an airplane, but our courtrooms need defense attorneys who will raise every possible question or defense before condemning the accused to life in prison or even death. The Lynne Stewart case doesn’t bode well for those lawyers being able to do their jobs without fear of joining the accused.
Just when you think the situation in the Middle East can’t get any crazier, we now have a pledge of suicide bombings against the Pope and attacks by “Palestinians” against Christian Churches in the West Bank and Gaza. This all comes on the heels of the Pope making some critical statements about Islamic extremists, for which the Vatican has already issued a clarification and apology.
Maybe I’m dense, but I fail to see the justification of issuing a death threat, and attacks on a community, due to an insult. Of course, we’ve seen these threats for years. Salman Rushdie writes a book and he lives for years with the threat of an attack. Ariel Sharon makes a visit to the Temple Mount and 1,007 Israelis and 3,651 Palestinians wind up dead as a result of Islamic violence supposedly sparked by anger over the visit of a politician to the Temple Mount. Nearly 5,000 people dead and it’s justified by a political affront. We get daily reports from Iraq about 60 people dead, 40 people dead, etc. in bombings of marketplaces motivated by who the hell knows what.
It’s time for the world to see these actions for what they are, crimes. They’re not political protests, they’re not acts of war, they’re certainly not holy in any sense of the word. They’re the acts of thugs and hooligans who use religion as a cover for the World’s largest organized crime network. They are attempting to hold us all hostage to their hatred and greed and in the process are bringing shame and heartache to the people of the Middle East, and now to the rest of the world while they get rich. Consider that Yasar Arafat, who was hardly a captain of industry, died one of the wealthiest men in the world with an estimated net worth of 1.3 billion dollars. In the meantime, the people who he supposedly led live impoverished lives made all the more desperate due to the violence he not only condoned but actively encouraged. Yet, men like Arafat have no problem standing before their people convincing them that Israel and the United States are the cause of their problems. Give me a break!
Will there be an end to the violence? Maybe someday, but I doubt that it’ll be in my lifetime. The incentives for violence remain too high, and the profits of fear and intimidation are too great. We continue to try to fight a war on terrorism, and fail to recognize that there are no warriors on the other side, only thugs and criminals. Warriors have honor and respect for human life, I fail to see any honor or respect in men who would call for death to the Pope simply for an insult. Such men remain in my mind to be nothing more than criminals.
When I review the pictures of my recent trip to Israel it seems unbelievable that the beautiful land and incredible people I encountered are now suffering an endless onslaught of deadly missile attacks launched by terrorist criminals. The missiles are not aimed at military targets, but are targeted to the heart of the nation by terrorizing the people.
My Israel experience left me with many impressions and a deep feeling of connection for my Jewish Homeland. While in Israel I watched as the land and the Israeli people worked a magical spiritual transformation on the members of my tour group as we began wearing our yarmulkes and kissing mezuzot as we passed through doorways, all signs of Jewish pride and identity that we suppress as we try to fit into American culture.
Israel has been forced into another struggle for her right to exist in peace. During my time in Israel we heard the history, the struggles, the sacrifices, and the bravery required to give birth to our Jewish Homeland. I know that as I write these words the Israeli people are again paying the price for the Jewish nation. As I watch the news, I wonder how I can help. Certainly, we can send money and encourage our elected representatives to support Israel. As I thought about my options, I remembered how Israel inspired me to wear my yamurlke, not just in the synagogue, but on the street in my daily life in Israel. Therefore, I decided that I would try wearing my yarmulke as I went about my life in America and see what happened.
Wearing my yarmulke has had an effect. I’ve done it for 2 days now and it’s opened the door to conversations which have allowed me to speak to individuals about Israel and why America should support her. It’s allowed me to reclaim a sense of Jewish pride I found in Israel and at least symbolically stand with her. Therefore, I would like to suggest that if you want to support Israel at this time of crisis, wearing your yarmulke is a simple act that allows you to publicly show your solidarity with the Jewish homeland. I have decided to wear mine at least until this time of crisis is over.
According to the clock on my computer it’s 7:45 P.M. on Sunday. I’m in an airplane high above the Mediterranean Sea on a non-stop flight from Tel Aviv to Atlanta. Our airplane is scheduled to touch down sometime around 6:00 A.M. Monday morning. According to the GPS map we’re approaching the coast of Italy.
The last few days of our trip have been a whirlwind. There has been so much to tell, but fatigue has taken its toll and I’ve ended the days without energy to write. My journey has taken me from the Golan Heights and the Syrian border to swimming in the Dead Sea, a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee, up to the top of Mount Masada, back to Jerusalem for Shabbat with my wife’s ultra-orthodox friends, and finally to Tel Aviv for a tour of a museum dedicated to the Haganah and a farewell dinner at a Yemenite Restaurant.
I am looking forward to getting back to my life in the states, but leave Israel feeling as if my world has changed in some very profound ways. The exact nature of those changes I’m not yet able to articulate. I do know that I feel a much deeper connection to my fellow Jews. I know that despite whatever challenges Israel faces that she must survive, and that her very existence is nothing short of a miracle. I leave with my religious beliefs intact, but also with a feeling that Orthodox practice doesn’t necessarily make one more religious or righteous.
I’ve seen the West Bank and the difficult living conditions of both the Jews and the Palestinians living there. I’ve had an opportunity to witness the hardship and xenophobia that terrorist zealots can bring to those who witness their crimes. I see that conflicts can often be much larger than the people involved.
Most of all, at the age of 41, I’ve fallen in love again, but this time with a country and a people who dare to dream the impossible. There is a life to Israel and her people. Maybe it’s because the Jews who founded the nation had nowhere else to go and they paid for the land with their sweat and blood. Whatever the reason, Israel is no longer a theoretical construct of my life, but a living, breathing, entity that has become part of my world and, hopefully, my future.
Yesterday we left Jerusalem, traveling back through Tel Aviv, and then turned north and traveled to the Golan in the very northern tip of Israel. We’re staying at a beautiful Kibbutz in what can only be described as one of the most beautiful areas I’ve ever seen. The surrounding landscape reminds me of the Mohawk valley where I was born, only the hills are steeper and the mountains of the Golan Heights tower over the entire area.
One interesting thing I’ve found in both of our hotels that you don’t see in America is the beds. Both of our rooms have had what are listed as King sized beds, but are really two separate twin beds put together. Each bed has its own sheets, blanket, etc. I’ve since learned that this is the norm in Israeli hotels and the reason behind it. Here’s a Jewish law challenge to my readers: Why do Israeli hotels have the separate beds?
The members of our tour group are wonderful people and I think we’re well suited for traveling together. Many are long-term friends and it’s a joy to share this adventure with them. I’m very intrigued by the changes I see in both myself and my friends as a result of our being here together. People have told me that for a Jew to come to Israel is to return home. I am watching this happen in our group. I suspect that most of us will leave with a desire to return to this place. Among the members of our group I’m watching an awakening and expression of Jewish identity that I’m not sure most of us ever realized was even within us. Most of the men in our group never wore a Kippa beyond the doors of the synagogue. Here in Israel they remain firmly affixed to our heads. I see people kissing mezuzahs as they pass through doorways where back home we never even noticed them. Hebrew words are making their way into our vocabulary. Outside of Israel these actions set us apart from the communities in which we live, so we suppress them in order not to call attention to ourselves or be regarded as “religious” – a trait sometimes not well regarded even in our own Jewish communities. In Israel we are finding the freedom to be Jewish.
Yesterday during our drive across the country we stopped in a place called Latrune and visited the Israeli Armored Corps memorial. This is a place where they honor the members of the Israeli tank corps, the backbone of the Israeli ground forces. Latrune is a place where the British had built a police garrison to control the road from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. Israel was unable to capture the area in the 1948 War for Tndependence despite several attempts. The area later fell into the hands of the Jordanians and was finally captured by Israel in the 1967 War.
I was very impressed by the concrete police garrison which is still standing on the site. Walking around the building you see the results of battle damage to the building. There are sections of concrete missing, holes through the walls, craters left in the cement by bullets. You immediately know that you are on ground that was paid for by the blood of soldiers, many of whom were not long from the concentration camps of Hitler’s Germany. There is a wall with the names of over 4,000 Israeli Tank Corps members who have died in the line of duty to Israel. Among these names is the cousin of our leader, Rabbi Elbaz. When asked, the young IDF solider who was leading our tour instantly knew the story of Private Natan Elbaz, who saved his unit by throwing himself on a grenade, sacrificing his own life to save his comrades. A friend of mine recently commented that the members of the Israeli military are “bad asses” and they know it. Perhaps, but I think there is more to it than that. The sight of a young Israeli in uniform carrying a weapon is as common here as Jerusalem stone. They are simply everywhere. However, there is a very different demeanor than what one sees with the American military. I was talking with the guide from the tour company, an American who moved to Israel, about his military experience, and he shared some interesting insights with me. First, members in Israeli military units call each other by their first names. There is an absence of the formality of rank and last name found in the American Armed forces. Secondly, Israeli military training is about learning how to defend the country, not about marching and proper wearing of the uniform. The solider who led our tour of Latrune was wearing sandals with her uniform (I can only imagine if I did this in my CAP unit). They only have two different uniforms, both of which are simple by American standards. In Civil Air Patrol, we have about a half dozen, and we don’t even fight. He said that during basic training they spent one day learning how to march and that was the day before the graduation ceremony. He also said that they don’t do all the nonsense of screaming and hollering at recruits and forcing people to do push-ups that our military is famous for. From what I can gather there is a strong emphasis on practicing combat skills and building strong allegiance to the unit. I believe that this difference in training reflects the fundamental difference in our national defense strategies. The US military relies upon the use of overwhelming force and fielding superior numbers and weaponry against our enemies. The Israeli military doesn’t have the advantage of size or numbers against its enemies. Instead, they must rely upon motivated soldiers who can be dynamic and creative in battle.
Well, I’m off for another day of riding the tour bus. I’ll try to post some pictures to the photo album soon!
It’s the early hours of Tuesday June 20, 2006 and in a few hours we are going to leave Jerusalem for a few days. We’ll be heading towards Tiberas, The Golan, and the Dead Sea as we continue our exploration of Israel. A part of me wishes I could just stay in Jerusalem and continue to soak up the sights and sounds of this beautiful city.
Yesterday we started our day by exploring the tunnels under the Western Wall. From the opinions I’ve heard expressed it appears that most in our group find this to be the most thrilled of our experiences. I agree with them. The tunnels are newly opened, having only been discovered in the 1990’s and have only recently been opened to the public. These tunnels allow you to go down to the very base to the Temple mount and see the bedrock upon which it sits. You can see the construction of the very foundation of the temple and the system of arches that has kept the structure erect for thousands of years. It is literally a trip back in time and totally awe inspiring. While I was trekking through the narrow passageways and catacombs I couldn’t help but feel like Indiana Jones in search of some ancient artifact.
Inside the system of catacombs and tunnels they have designated areas next to the wall for prayer. It’s important to remember that the foundation wall you explore in the tunnels is a continuation of the same wall that we’re all familiar with as the Western Wall, a site considered by many as the most holy site in Judaism where Jews come from around the world to pray. There are two access points to the tunnel wall areas. One comes directly off to the left of the men’s prayer area for the Western Wall and is a beautiful labyrinth of underground rooms which have been outfitted with beautiful wooden bookshelves holding Jewish prayer books for study by anyone wishing to study and pray there. The other entrance we became aware of during our tour as we saw women constantly coming and going through the tunnels during our prayer. There is a room, a balcony actually, just off the tunnel tour, which is set aside for the women to have access to the wall and pray. What’s surprisingly significant about this area is that despite the Men’s area being larger, especially on the outside, it’s actually the closest area to the actually temple site, which people refer to as the “Holiest of holies”. This is important when one considers that the whole point in praying at the wall is to be as close as possible to the site of the destroyed temple.
One other interesting thing about these tunnels is that they literally allow you to view Jewish History. When the Romans destroyed the Second Temple they also leveled Jerusalem. Archeologists have been working and excavating around the Temple Mount for almost 100 years and continue to find incredible artifacts from the destruction. As you travel through the tunnels there are these plexi-glass windows in the floor where you can see even further excavations going on below your feet. In other areas the windows open on huge pieces of stone rubble that continue to lay in broken piles from where the Romans pushed them off the top of the Temple mount. When looking at these piles of destruction one is literally looking backwards in history to Tish B’Av, the destruction of the second Temple.
There are a few other interesting Temple oriented experiences which I would be remiss not to mention. There is the Davidson Archeological Museum located at the Southwest corner of the Temple Mount. This is part of the largest of the archeological projects undertaken in the area and provides an excellent introduction to the Temple artifacts and what it actually looked like. They’ve even got a virtual computer model of what the archeological data say the Temple area looked like, right down to shops and a mikvah (Jewish ritual bath). What’s really amazing is that you see the virtual model first, and then go explore the site and it all comes together in a very powerful way that really brings the area to life.
The other Temple area is called the Burnt House, and is again based on archeological findings. This area is back up in the Old City, several hundred yards away from the Temple Mount. It’s based upon archeological findings of a house and its artifacts. The archeologists believe that this house was also destroyed by the Romans. Supporting this belief is a severed arm (just the bones) or a young girl, and a part of a metal spear consistent with the spears known to be carried by the Romans. The charred evidence supports the idea that the house was burned down. There is plate they found with Hebrew writing on it that gives the name of “Katron”, which is consistent with other historical data as belonging to one of the Temple Priests. The presentation is done so that you get a sense of what the inhabitants of the home might have experienced.
Lastly, in regards to the Temple, there was our visit yesterday to the Temple Institute. This is a group who is recreating Temple artifacts in preparation for the rebuilding of the Temple. They believe that soon G-d will rebuild the Temple and that they need to be ready to perform the Temple rituals described in the Torah. Their models of the Temple where interesting, as were their artifacts. They’ve even built a huge gold Menorah, which is on display in an area called the Cardozo. I can’t say that I share their vision of rebuilding the Temple and understand that they are quite controversial, but they have put a lot of effort and money in recreating the items of Temple life.
There are so many other things that I’d like to share regarding my Jerusalem experiences. I hope to write soon about Yod Vashem, the Israeli Holocaust museum. Then there’s our trip to a shopping mall, our visit to a Kibbutz, shopping in the Arab Quarter, falafel on Ben Yahuda Street, my experience buying postage stamps, and a multitude of other events which have made this a wonderful and profound experience.
We’ve now been in Jerusalem for two days. I could write for weeks about what I’ve already experienced. I suspect that it will easily take me that long to fully process the wonderful experiences of the past couple of days.
We’ve formally toured some of the city highlights. Friday we went to the Mount of Olives for the first of many visual perspectives on the city. Each block we traveled along the route contributed to the overall history of this place and the peoples who are drawn here. Certainly, in such an ancient city with so many conquests, there are many places of violence and conflict, but I also became aware that it’s out of these tragedies that the idea of Justice in the Western World has been given life. Each time I leave the hotel I see people from every corner of the world, speaking in foreign tongues, of every possible skin color drawn to this sacred place.
Looking down on the City from the Mount of Olives I was struck by the contrasts. It’s so very ancient, and so very new at the same time. There’s the Old City, surrounded by it’s large and mighty wall, then surrounding it is this beautiful modern city that for the most part is less than 100 years old. It’s possibly the most Jewish place on earth, but looking at the city you can’t ignore the influence of all the other people’s who have come here either out of reverence or greed. The buildings rising above the walls of the Old City are a collection of Churches and Mosques much more than Synagogues. The architecture is Roman, Byzantine, Armenian, Catholic, Protestant, Ottoman, and even modern. The most unified feature is the façade of Jerusalem stone that absolutely shimmers with beauty and strength in the Mediterranean sunlight. One is immediately struck by the close proximity of the people and places. From the top of the Mount of Olives to the Old City is but a short walk through a valley that’s very small by western standards, maybe one mile.
We visited a place called Ammunition Hill where the Jordanians and Israelis fought a terrible battle during the 1967 war in which the Israelis were able to unify the city. The battle was close trench warfare with the opposing modern armies less than 100 yards apart doing battle with rifles, tanks, and grenades. In the museum we heard the stories of the Israeli soldiers, the fear they faced, the sacrifices they made, and the joy of their victory which brought Jews back to the Western Wall and removed the walls within the city. Later I would see where the city had been divided by actual walls and I saw the bullet holes and building tops where snipers would fire down, even during peace time.
Our tour brought us to a museum inside the walls of the Old City where we saw archeological ruins and heard the story of the city history. The dates are mind boggling to my American mind. 700 years ago, 1,000 years ago, 3,000 years, it just gets older the further down you go. This city, which is both a crossroads and backwater, is the product of conquest and neglect.
There are so many things to share about this place, many details to be shared. For instance, the bathrooms are different in interesting ways. In the men’s room there are no barriers between the urinals, but the actual toilets have almost a full door, with only a small opening at the bottom, on the stalls (no crawling under here). There’s the food, the incredible food! Vegetables rule the day and they have flavor. The Kosher food actually tastes wonderful and it’s almost all Kosher, even the Burger King! There’s the whole thing with the Hotel Lights going out automatically on Shabbat and the over-ride system that lets you turn the lights in the room back on. There’s the physical affection and gentleness I see the Israeli and Arab fathers show to their children.
I need to get some sleep so I can be somewhat rested for the next long day of touring. There’s so much to see and experience. I hope I’ve given you a glimpse of our experience. I really appreciate all the emails.